Scandinavian Peaks Hut on the Matanuska Glacier in the Chugach Mountains.

Photo by William Finley.

Hans' Hut on the Whiteout Glacier in the Chugach Mountains.

Photo by Travis Taylor.

The Mint Hut near the Mint Glacier in the Talkeetna Mountains.

Photo by Travis Taylor.

The Mint Hut near the Mint Glacier in the Talkeetna Mountains.

Photo by Wayne Todd.

Rosie's Roost

Rosie's was built in 1968, it is part of the Eklutna Traverse and was originally called Eagle Glacier Cabin.

  • Water: In the summer look below the hut to the north for melt water, there is also a snowmelt lake in that direction and a stream to the east.
  • Human Waste: Haul out waste in your own trash compactor bags.
  • Inventory: Sleeps 8-10, Coleman 2 burner cook stove, bring your own fuel, some cookware, lantern, pads.
  • Location: Eagle Glacier, 3 ½ miles from the toe of the glacier, 5 miles from goat mountain, 5 ½ miles from crow pass cabin, 18 miles from Eagle River Visitor's Center. Elevation 3900 feet.
  • Coordinates: 61 05.300 N 149 01.100 W

Access

 

Alpine Air out of Girdwood can be chartered out for a quick access at a reasonable price.

Accessing the hut by foot requires glacier travel skills, beware of inherent risks. See important update below if you plan to ascend or descend Eklutna Glacier.

Traveling south from Hans's Hut.

  1. Traditional Whiteout Glacier route: From the main Whiteout Glacier travel south and descend southwest branch staying in the middle of the glacier. Head towards Eagle Glacier passing several long crevasses on snow bridges. About ½ mile from Eagle Glacier there is a flat section where you should turn left and diagonally descend, sometimes on moraine left of center, towards Eagle Glacier. The hut, in good visibility, can be seen ahead across the glacier on a rocky knoll. Cross Eagle glacier to the far edge, keeping your elevation and get off the ice. Rosie's is 300 feet above the glacier, and can be reached by climbing benches to the right of the hut or ascending the drainage to the east, past the hut and turning back towards the hut once flatter ground is reached. 
  2. Blackout pass route: From Hans's Hut cross the cirque below Hut Peak, going west to Blackout Pass (6250), which sits just south of pint 6435. Descend southwest from the pass on a small glacier and eventually reach a moraine southwest of Hut Peak. Aim for a wide gully adjacent to Hut Peak's southwest shoulder and descend to the lateral moraine next to Eagle Glacier. Ascend Eagle Glacier, traveling south, towards the rocky knoll on the west side of the glacier. Rosie's is on this knoll. Get off the ice below the knoll and ascend benches to the hut. 
  3. From Eagle River: Leave Crow Pass trail before the ford site and head south for Glacier Lake which is surrounded by alder. Travel around the north side of the lake using a hunter's trail. Continue on the left side of rocky benches, crossing Emerald Creek to the east of Eagle Glacier. Ascend the glacier making many zigzags through the icefall and passing a steep rock wall on the right. Crevasses will force you to the right, until eventually you will be able to get off the ice. Follow a long moraine strip towards a rocky knoll on which the hut is located. Climb 300 feet on benches to reach the hut.

Traveling North:

  1. Raven Glacier route: From Crow Pass cabin continue through Crow Pass and turn east onto Raven Glacier. As you ascend the glacier diagonal left to avoid the more crevassed area below the summit of Summit Mountain. Aim for the Raven Headwall which leads to a pass adjacent to Raven Peak. There are at least two large crevasses at the base of the headwall and one ½ way up, but are usually passable on snow bridges. The headwall angle is maximum at 45 degrees angle and prone to avalanches. It is a 600 foot climb to the pass. Just before reaching the top of the headwall turn left onto a small ledge and climb to the pass. From the pass descend easily to a rocky knoll without going down all the way to Eagle Glacier. Get off the ice skier's right onto the rocky knoll and descend 200 feet to the hut located on a bench 
  2. Goat Mountain route: Alternative to the Raven Headwall route and a good summer route. Winter avalanche danger, during unstable snow pack reach the ridge as low as possible, adding at least extra 2 miles. Along the Crow Pass road cross a bridge over Crow Creek before an A frame cabin. After the bridge note a set of Jeep tracks heading straight uphill. Follow them as they turn into a trail. Note a post marking the corner of a property boundary on the right, there should be another trail here going right, follow it through heavy brush towards Glacier Gulch. Crossing the creek in the gulch can be difficult. Head uphill to eventually reach a small waterfall. Ascend easily around the waterfall to flatter ground below the moraine of an unnamed glacier on the side of Goat Mountain. Ascend about 2200 feet to the crest of the south ridge of Goat Mountain and a trail on the ridge. The trail contours right and comes to a steep scree gully. Go straight up the gully and back onto the ridge. Continue along the ridge, following cairns which will again leave the ridge to the right around 5700 feet. Get off the ridge and descend to Eagle Glacier. Ascend the glacier momentarily and then descend north-northwest, swinging north, and go down the glacier. 4 miles down the glacier note a rocky knoll on the left. Try not to go up too soon as you will ascend the wrong knoll. Ascend some benches to reach the hut. Travel time 10-12 hours.

Eklutna Traverse and Pichlers Access Hazard - Update by Wayne L. Todd September 2011

The Eklutna Glacier is rapidly melting and retreating up the canyon. Glacier access is no longer an easy walk up with crampons. Current inherent hazards are deep crevasses, deep undercut bergschrunds, moulins, steep ice, churning water and mud on top of steep ice. The lower route is changing every year. Within two years the ice bridge over the river in the canyon will probably be gone which will create additional hazards and require more route finding.  

Climbers should be prepared with steel crampons, two ice tools (or ice tool with sharp snow axe), a rope for climbing, belaying and/or rappelling and the hardware to do such (ice screws, V thread material, belay device, harness, helmet, etc.). Snow may fill in some of the smaller hazards but may just cover the larger ones.

Overall the Eklutna Glacier is thinning which is creating more crevasses, especially below four thousand feet. Roped travel on the snow covered glacier is highly advised.

 

History

In early August an anonymous party donated $1000 to build the fourth cabin on the Eklutna Traverse. The cabin was built on the same plan as Hans's hut. The materials were acquired by Hans Van der Lann and were cut at Fort Richardson on August 23-24 by Andy Anderson, Keith Bittner and Frank Nosek thanks to an arrangement made by Andy Anderson. On August 24th the materials were trucked up the Eagle River road. On August 25 Will Collup used his helicopter to move the materials to the hut site where Andy Anderson and Barney Seiler were unloading them. The next Saturday, Lowell Thomas airlifted Ted Shohl, Dave Meyers, Andy Goulding, Keith Bittner, Andy Anderson and Frank Nosek 1 ½ miles from the building site. Ted and Andy returned the same evening, but the rest of the crew stayed and completed the cabin except for the tin roofing and wood preservative due to lack of time. The crew left behind a sleeping bag, some tools, tin for roofing and stove fuel (Scree, October 1968).

On August 2005 a maintenance group led by Greg Bragiel utilized the supplies previously delivered by 212th. The following work was performed: painting of interior walls, exterior, caulking, cleaning, organizing, remove junk, inventory needs. Hiked in via Eagle Glacier. This was the infamous Carlene phytophotodermatitis incident when she had to be evacuated by Alpine Air helicopter due to blistered legs. The party consisted of Marcin Ksok, Carlene VanTol, John Recktenwald, Allison Sayer, Ray Nabinger and Greg Bragiel. On August 2006 Sam Pepper and Jenny Magee performed the following work: cleaning, organizing, inventory, paint walls and floor, caulking and repairs.


Gallery
Greg Bragiel belays Marcin Ksok on hut repairs. Photo © Greg Bragiel Allyson Sayer, Ray Nabinger, Greg Bragiel and Carlene Van Tol pose for a Kokane beer ad (jesting). Photo © Greg Bragiel Ray Nabinger paints trim on a perfect day.  Photo © Greg Bragiel Marcin Ksok and John Recktenwald work on the hut.  Photo © Greg Bragiel

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Many thanks to: Wayne Todd, Tim Silvers, Ross Noffsinger, Steve Gruhn, Carrie Wang, Billy Finley and many others who provided information, ideas and photos. And thanks to Willy Hersman who created, managed and hosted the first MCA website, without which this site's development would have been so much more difficult. Current website donated by Couloir Graphics.