Looking east at the high Chugach from White Lice. Chugach State Park.

Photo by Wayne Todd.

Mt. Michelson summit ridge. Brooks Range, Arctic Refuge. Marcin Ksok and Carrie Wang.

Photo by Wayne Todd.

The Scandinavia Peaks Hut sits among the magnificent Scandinavian peaks of the Matanuska Glacier area.

Photo by Wayne Todd.

Crevasse rescue training at the MCA's Basic Mountaineering School.

Photo by Dean Carman.

MCA Ice Climbing Festival

The 2017 MCA Ice Climbing Festival

Friday, September 22nd to Sunday, September 24th

General Info: The MCA Ice Festival is a two day instructional weekend. Instruction is catered to participants' abilities and curriculum includes instruction in modern ice climbing techniques, associated safety systems and familiarization of equipment.  Instructors are volunteers within the Mountaineering Club of Alaska.  All participants, instructors and event volunteers camp out together off the glacier, to maximize instruction time and encourage socializing in the evening.

ALL REGISTERED PARTICIPANTS MUST ATTEND THE MANDATORY PARTICIPANT MEETING - Tuesday, September 19th at 6:30pm at the BP Energy Center, 900 E. Benson Blvd. Please bring your harness, climbing boots and crampons to this meeting for inspection (except AMH, APU and REI rentals)

The Ice Festival welcomes all experience levels, novice included. Participants must be a current MCA member and 18 years of age or older.

Participants are organized into groups according to experience (based on a survey completed during the registration process) and assigned two instructors for the weekend. Instructor/Student ratios are usually, 1:4.  The group levels are generally categorized as follows:

  • Novice (no experience)
  • Beginner (has climbed ice once or twice)
  • Advanced Beginner (has climbed ice 6+ times)
  • Intermediate (has climbed ice 10+ times)
  • Advanced (climbs ice regularly and is looking to improve skills)

Participant Packet: Please review the "Participant Packet" in the downloads section below for a more complete description of the event, including logistical information, schedules and an equipment list.

Schedule:  The MCA Ice Climbing Festival will be held: Friday, September 22nd thru Sunday, September 24th. Instruction is from 9:30-4:30pm Saturday and Sunday.  Many participants drive up Friday evening since the event is 101 driving miles from Anchorage (2 hrs. driving time) and the event starts early Saturday morning.

Cost: $85 for the event (includes camping, glacier access fees and instruction). Registration open 9/1-9/16. Transportaion, food, equipment rentals are not included.  MCA membership is required and is an additional $20-$25.

Mandatory Pre-Event Meeting/Gear Inspection: All registered participants are required to attend a mandatory meeting on Tuesday, September 19th at 6:30pm at the BP ENERGY CENTER. Participants are required to bring their harness, boots and crampons to this meeting for inspection (except REI, AMH or APU rentals) NO LATE REGISTRATION AVAILABLE AT THIS MEETING-REGISTRATION ENDS 9/16!

Ice Climbing Equipment: The MCA provides ropes, anchors and technical ice climbing tools (tools are less than 60cm in length and used for climbing steep ice-different than a mountaineering axe). Participants are required to equip themselves with a working harness, helmet, climbing specific boots, crampons and a mountaineering axe. Participants needing equipment should expect to rent from Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking (907-272-1811), the outdoor program at Alaska Pacific University (907-564-8614) or REI (907-272-4565). AMH, APU and REI rent ice climbing equipment (i.e climbing boots, crampons, helmets and mountaineering axes).  No one in town rents harnesses so you will need to borrow or buy one for the event.  Current MCA members get a 10% discount on all climbing equipment purchases at Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking with proof of current MCA membership.  Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking (AMH) has taken advanced reservations for the MCA Ice Fest event in the past and they usually only charge you the weekend rental rate and you are usually able to pick up your rental equipment for no additional charges and prior to the mandatory meeting/equipment inspection.  Alaska Pacific University, Outdoor Programs and REI also rent climbing equipment although they do not usually take advanced reservations.  The MCA has limited equipment available for use (helmets, crampons and mountaineering axes), for no charge to current MCA members and event participants.  


TO REGISTER: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/mountaineering-club-of-alaska-ice-climbing-festival-tickets-36981299061 


If you have any questions, please contact Ice Fest Coordinator, Jayme Mack at 907-382-0212 or mcaicefest@gmail.com.



(60 KB)
2017 MCA Ice Fest Participant Packet

NOTE: Many of the documents are in PDF format and require Adobe Acrobat Reader for viewing. Acrobat Reader software may be downloaded for free from Adobe Systems, Inc.

Cory Hinds shows fine climbing form. Photo © Wayne Todd Robert Kaye swings a tool and gesticulates. Photo © Wayne Todd Climbers enjoy the ice and sun on the Matanuska Glacier. Photo © Wayne Todd A climber picks his way up a steep glacier wall.  Photo © Wayne Todd
Cory Hinds works on a difficult overhang. Photo © Wayne Todd Climbers disperse across the face of Matanuska Glacier. Photo © Wayne Todd Stan Olsen demonstrates climbing technique. Photo © Wayne Todd Tom Choate (the Goat) cuts his birthday cake with an ice tool. The ice tool was removed from the table with difficulty.  Photo © Wayne Todd
A climber ascends an ice arete. Photo © Wayne Todd So many ice aretes to climb.  Photo © Wayne Todd A climber ascends a steep wall as a belay keeps him safe on the Matanuska Glacier.  Photo © Wayne Todd A climber ascends toward the mottled sun. Photo © Wayne Todd

© 2018 Mountaineering Club of Alaska     Box 243561,  Anchorage, AK 99524-3561     Contact Us

Many thanks to: Wayne Todd, Tim Silvers, Ross Noffsinger, Steve Gruhn, Carrie Wang, Billy Finley and many others who provided information, ideas and photos. And thanks to Willy Hersman who created, managed and hosted the first MCA website, without which this site's development would have been so much more difficult. Current website donated by Couloir Graphics.